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Xref: bloom-picayune.mit.edu rec.bicycles.misc:1368 news.answers:4253 Path: bloom-picayune.mit.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!usc!news.service.uci.edu!nntpsrv From: iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu (Mike Iglesias) Subject: Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting Part 1/4 Nntp-Posting-Host: draco.acs.uci.edu Expires: 15 Jan 93 00:00:00 GMT Message-ID: <rec-bicycles-faq-1_9211290@draco.acs.uci.edu> Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.misc,news.answers Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Organization: University of California, Irvine Lines: 1417 Supersedes: <rec-bicycles-faq-1_921018@draco.acs.uci.edu> Date: 30 Nov 92 06:21:47 GMT Followup-To: rec.bicycles.misc Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part1 Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information Last modified: November 29, 1992 The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists might find useful. Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles, and and some are condensed from postings. Answers include the name and email address of the author. If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party. If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email address, let me know and I'll fix it. If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write it up and send it to me at the address below. Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen. If you want something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary. Mike Iglesias iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu =========================================================================== Quick Index: (* means section hasn't been written yet. ! means updated since last FAQ. + means new section.) Abbreviations Archives Books and Magazines Electronic Mailing Lists Mail Order Addresses Posting Guidelines ! Technical Support Numbers General Information Road Gradient Units Ball Bearing Grades Tour de France Jerseys Major Tour Winners 1947-1991 Rating Tour de France climbs Bike Trailers One Less Car T-Shirts Panniers and Racks Helmets Clothing Seats SIS Cables Terminology Maps Women's Saddles Women's Bikes Bike Rentals Bike Lockers Bike Computer Features Avoiding Dogs Shaving Your Legs Contact Lenses and Cycling Bicycling in America Recumbents Recumbent Bike Info More Recumbent Bike Info Commuting How to deal with your clothes Cold Weather Cycling Pete's Winter Cycling Tips Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips Studded Tires Milk Jug Mud Flaps Touring Touring supplies Cycling Myths Buying a Bike Chains Lubrication Wear and Gear Slipping Adjusting Chain Length Hyperglide Chains Cranks and Bottom Brackets Bottom Bracket Info Crank Noise Cracking/Breaking Cranks Biopace Chainrings Tires, tubes and rims Snakebite flats Blown Tube Mounting Tires More Flats on Rear Tires Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims Clinchers vs. Tubulars Presta Valve Nuts Ideal Tire Sizes Brakes Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot brakes Headsets, Forks Indexed Steering Adjustments Seat adjustments Cleat adjustments SIS derailleur adjustments Tools and Workstands Where to buy tools Workstands Riding Techniques Descending I Descending II Trackstands Nutrition and Food Nutrition Primer Nuclear Free Energy Bar recipe Powerbars Calories burned by cycling Frames Frame stiffness comparison Frame materials Bike pulls to one side Frame repair Frame Fatigue Injuries Road rash Knee problems =========================================================================== Abbreviations Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*: FAQ Frequenly Asked Question. What you are reading now is a file containing answers to some FAQs. IMHO In my humble opinion. TIOOYK There Is Only One You Know. Refers to the Tour de France. =========================================================================== Archives I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12). This is the workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time. The files are in pub/rec.bicycles. For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of the items there. I really don't have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily. To use the FTP server, send an email message containing the line help in the body of the message to ftpmail@gatekeeper.dec.com. You'll get a help file back from the FTP server with more information on how to use it. README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area bike.lockers David H. Wolfskill's (david@dhw68k.cts.com) summary of bike locker vendors. bike.painting Sam Henry's (shenry@rice.edu) collection of articles on how to paint a bike. bike_power.* Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power consumption. See bike_power.doc for more info. biking_log.hqx Phil Etheridge's (phil@massey.ac.nz) hypercard stack riding diary. It keeps track of dates, distance, time, average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly, and yearly totals. bmb.ride Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) report on her 1992 Boston-Montreal-Boston ride. competitive.nutrition Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) article from the Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling. faq.* The current Frequently Asked Questions posting first.century Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.kodak.com) tips on training for your first century ride. lights Tom Reingold's (tr@samadams.princeton.edu) collection of articles on bike lights. lights2 More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights. mtb.buy Joakim Karlsson's (aviator@athena.mit.edu) article on buying an entry-level MTB. pbp.info Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.kodak.com) information on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride. pictures Bicycling gif pictures. prof.sched Roland Stahl's (stahl@ipi.uni-hannover.de) list of scheduled professional races in many countries. ride.index Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's (bushnell@lmsc.lockheed.com) explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the difficulty of different rides. spike.bike Bob Fishell's (spike@cbnewsd.att.com) Spike Bike series. They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to rec.bicycles. All the Spike Bike stories are "Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved." spokelen11.bas Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) spoke length calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic. spokelen.c Andy Tucker's (tucker@Neon.Stanford.EDU) port of Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C. studded.tires Nancy Piltch's (piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov) compilation of messages on studded tires, including how to make your own. tandem.boxes Arnie Berger's (arnie@col.hp.com) notes on how he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and back. It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if you want more information, contact him at the above address. tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's (josh@Happy-Man.com) list of technical support numbers for various manufacturers. This list used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there. trailers A summary posting of messages about bike trailers. Good stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer. wheels.*.hqx R. Scott Truesdell's (truesdel@ics.uci.edu) Hypercard stack to calculate spoke lengths. See wheels.readme for more info. wintertips Pete Hickey's (pete@panda1.uottawa.ca) notes about how to cycle in the winter. Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97) in the directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern Dahl-Stamnes (dahls@fhydra.dnet.unit.no). READ.ME Information about the other files in the directory. bm103.zip The latest version of Bike Manager. The .uue file bm103.uue is a uuencoded version of the .zip file. Bike Manager is a shareware program that help you keep a log of your training activities. It can report summary reports, weekly reports, monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your activities against your goals. And more... brake.doc About how to make yourown brake booster. gtos91.doc The story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991. gtos92.doc Ditto, but for the 1992 trail. =========================================================================== Books and Magazines Magazines/Newsletters --------- Bicycling Magazine, and Bicycling Magazine+Mountain Bike insert 33 E Minor St Emmaus, PA 18098 (215) 967-5171 Bicycle Guide 711 Boylston Street Boston MA 02116 617-236-1885 Mountain Biking 7950 Deering Avenue Canoga Park CA 91304 818-887-0550 Mountain Bike Action Hi-Torque Publications, Inc. 10600 Sepulveda Boulevard Mission Hills, CA 91345 818-365-6831 Velo News P.O. Box 53397 Boulder, CO 80323-3397 Cycling Science P.O. Box 1510 Mount Shasta, California 96067 (916) 938-4411 Human Power (The Journal of the IHPVA*) (* IHPVA == International Human Powered Vehicle Association) IHPVA PO 51255 Indianapolis, IN 46251-0255 (317) 876-9478 OnTour: The Newsletter for Bicycle Tourists OnTour Publications 2113 Arborview Ann Arbor, MI 48103. Sample issues are only $1, a six-issue subscription only $6 R.B.C.A./The Recumbent Cyclist 17650-B6-140th Ave. SE, Suite 341 Renton, WA 98058 USA The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America 427 Amherst St Suite 305 Nashua NH 03063 USA Tandem Club of America Malcolm Boyd & Judy Allison 19 Lakeside Drive NW Medford Lakes, NJ 08550 Dues are currently $10/year Dirt Rag 5742 Third St. Verona, PA (412) 795 - 7495 FAX (412) 795 - 7439 Books ----- Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Rodale Press ISBN 0-87857-895-1 Effective Cycling by John Forester MIT Press ISBN 0-262-56026-7 The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt Avocet ISBN 0-9607236-2-5 Bicycle Maintenance Manual by Eugene A. Sloan (a Fireside book, pub. Simon & Schuster, Inc.) ISBN 0-671-42806-3 Anybody's Bike Book by Tom Cuthbertson Bicycles and Tricycles - A Treatise on their Design. By Archibald Sharp MIT Press (reportedly written around 1899 or so, with lots of interesting information) Bicycle Road Racing by Edward Borysewicz The Woman Cycist by Elaine Mariolle Contemporary Books Touring on Two Wheels by Dennis Coello Lyons and Berrfard, New York The Bicyclist's Sourcebook by Michael Leccese and Arlene Plevin Subtitled: "The Ultimate Directory of Cycling Information" Woodbine House, Inc. $16.95 ISBN 0-933149-41-7 Colorado Cycling Guide by Jean and Hartley Alley Pruett Publishing Company Boulder, Colorado The Canadian Rockies Bicycling Guide by Gail Helgason and John Dodd Lone Pine Publishing,Edmonton, Alberta A Women's Guide to Cycling by Susan Weaver Favorite Pedal Tours of Northern California by Naomi Bloom Fine Edge Productions, Route 2, Box 303, Bishop, CA 93514 Mountain Biking Near Boston: A Guide to the Best 25 Places to Ride by Stuart A. Johnstone, Active Publications (1991), ISBN 0-9627990-4-1 Mountain Bike: a manual of beginning to advanced technique by William Nealy, Menasha Ridge Press, 1992, ISBN 0-89732-114-6 =========================================================================== Electronic Mailing lists bicycles@bbn.com A mailing list for bicycle enthusiasts. Usually low traffic. Send requests to bicycles-request@bbn.com to be added to the list. tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts. Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection, prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc. =========================================================================== Mail Order Addresses Here's the addresses/phone numbers of some popular cycling mail order outfits (you can get directory assistance for 800 numbers at 1-800-555-1212 if you don't see the mail order outfit you're looking for here): Branford Bike orders: 1-800-272-6367 info: 203-488-0482 fax: 203-483-0703 Colorado Cyclist orders: 1-800-688-8600 info: 719-576-3474 fax: 719-576-3598 2455 Executive Circle Colorado Springs, CO 80906 Cyclo-Pedia (800) 678-1021 P.O. Box 884 Adrian MI 49221 Catalog $1 as of 4/91. Excel Sports International orders: 1-800-627-6664 info: 303-444-6737 fax: 303-444-7043 3275 Prairie Ave. #1 Boulder, CO 80301 Loose Screws (503) 488-4800 (503) 488-0080 FAX 12225 HWY 66 Ashland OR 97520 Nashbar orders: 1-800-627-4227 (1-800-NASHBAR) 216-782-2244 Local and APO/FPO orders info: 216-788-6464 Tech. Support fax: 800-456-1223 4111 Simon Road Youngstown, OH 44512-1343 Performance Bike Shop orders: 1-800-727-2453 (1-800-PBS-BIKE) 919-933-9113 Foreign orders info: 800-727-2433 Customer Support fax: One Performance Way P.O. Box 2741 Chapel Hill, NC 27514 Schwab Cycles orders: 1-800-343-5347 info: 303-238-0243 fax: 303-233-5273 1565 Pierce St. Lakewood, CO 80214 The Womyn's Wheel, Inc. (Specializes in clothing and equipment for women) 603-926-4939 540 Lafayette Rd. Suite 7 Hampton NH 03842 =========================================================================== Posting Guidelines The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your article to the appropriate group. The newsgroups were designed to minimize cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate newsgroup and post your article there. rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy them, and evaluations of these sources. Not for discussion of general engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech. rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment. Not for products or services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace. rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes. Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc. rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws, conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and sociopaths. rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and organizations. Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace or rec.bicycles.tech. rec.bicycles.misc: General riding techniques, rider physiology, injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics. =========================================================================== Technical Support Numbers (Joshua Putnam Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com) [This list is now in the ftp archives as it is too long to put here] =========================================================================== General Information Road Gradient Units (Jeff Berton jeff344@voodoo.lerc.nasa.gov) The grade of an incline is its vertical rise, in feet, per every 100 horizontal feet traversed. (I say "feet" for clarity; one could use any consistent length measure.) Or, if you will accept my picture below, * d | a | o | y R Theta | *___)______________| x then Grade = y/x (Multiply by 100 to express as a percentage.) and Theta = arctan(y/x) So a grade of 100% is a 45 degree angle. A cliff has an infinite grade. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ball Bearing Grades (Bill Codding peda@simplicity.Stanford.EDU) (Harry Phinney harry@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com) Following is a description of the different grades of ball bearings. The grade specifies the sphericity of the balls in millionths of an inch. Thus, grade 25 are round to 25/10^6, while grade 1000 are good to 1/1000 (i.e. not all that round, but probably good enough for our uses). Grade 25: the highest quality normally available, aka "Campagnolo quality": hardened all the way through, best alloys, coatings, roundness, and durability. Evidently, a recent bottom-bracket overhaul article in "Bicycling Plus Mountain Bike" magazine recommended these. Campy's tech reps claim that the bearings in a set (usually in a little paper bag) are matched. One should not mix bearings from different sets. Grade 200: mid-range Grade 1000: seems to be the lowest, may only be surface hardened. Good sources for ball bearings: Your local bike shop (make sure you're getting the grade you want) Bike Parts Pacific Bike Nashbar 1-800-NASHBAR ($1-$3 per 100 Grade 25) The Third Hand 1-916-926-2600 ($4-$7 per 100 Grade 25) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tour de France Jerseys (Chris Murphy murphyc@bionette.CGRB.ORST.EDU) Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling" explain: YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto (Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing. POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933. GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953. YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the the team's top 3 riders. In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears the category jersey. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Major Tour Winners 1947-1990 (Tim Smith tsmith@gryphon.CTS.COM) [Ed note: I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted. I need some help filling in the last few years.] Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947: Tour de France Giro d'Italia Vuelta d'Espana ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1947 Jean Robic (F) Fausto Coppi (I) E. van Dyck (B) 1948 Gino Bartali (I) F. Magni (I) B. Ruiz (E) 1949 Fausto Coppi (I) F. Coppi (not held) 1950 Ferdi Kubler (CH) Hugo Koblet (CH) E. Rodriguez (E) 1951 Hugo Koblet (CH) F. Magni (nh) 1952 Fausto Coppi F. Coppi (nh) 1953 Louison Bobet (F) F. Coppi (nh) 1954 Louison Bobet C. Clerici (CH) (nh) 1955 Louison Bobet F. Magni J. Dotto (F) 1956 Roger Walkowiak (F) Charly Gaul (L) A. Conterno (I) 1957 Jacques Anquetil (F) Gastone Nencini (I) J. Lorono (E) 1958 Charly Gaul (L) E. Baldini (I) Jean Stablinski (F) 1959 Federico Bahamontes (E) Charly Gaul A. Suarez (E) 1960 Gastone Nencini (I) Jacques Anquetil (F) F. de Mulder (B) 1961 Jacques Anquetil A. Pambianco (I) A. Soler (E) 1962 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion (I) Rudy Altig (D) 1963 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion J. Anquetil (F) 1964 Jacques Anquetil Jacques Anquetil Raymond Poulidor (F) 1965 Felice Gimondi (I) V. Adorni (I) R. Wolfshohl (D) 1966 Lucien Aimar (F) Gianni Motta (I) F. Gabica (E) 1967 Roger Pingeon (F) Felice Gimondi (I) J. Janssen (NDL) 1968 Jan Janssen (NDL) Eddy Merckx (B) Felice Gimondi (I) 1969 Eddy Merckx (B) Felice Gimondi Roger Pingeon (F) 1970 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx Luis Ocana (E) 1971 Eddy Merckx Gosta Petersson (S) F. Bracke (B) 1972 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx J-M Fuente (E) 1973 Luis Ocana (E) Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx (B) 1974 Eddy Merckx Eddy Merckx J-M Fuente 1975 Bernard Thevenet (F) F. Bertoglio (I) Tamames (E) 1976 Lucien van Impe (B) Felice Gimondi J. Pesarrodona (E) 1977 Bernard Thevenet Michel Pollentier (B) Freddy Maertens (B) 1978 Bernard Hinault (F) J. de Muynck (B) Bernard Hinault (F) 1979 Bernard Hinault Giuseppe Saronni (I) Joop Zoetemelk (NDL) 1980 Joop Zoetemelk (NDL) Bernard Hinault (F) F. Ruperez (E) 1981 Bernard Hinault Giovanni Battaglin (I) Giovanni Battaglin (I) 1982 Bernard Hinault Bernard Hinault Marino Lejarreta (E) 1983 Laurent Fignon (F) Giuseppe Saronni (I) Bernard Hinault (F) 1984 Laurent Fignon Francesco Moser (I) Eric Caritoux (F) 1985 Bernard Hinault Bernard Hinault Pedro Delgado (E) 1986 Greg Lemond (USA) Roberto Visentini (I) Alvaro Pino (E) 1987 Stephen Roche (EIR) Stephen Roche (EIR) Luis Herrera (Col.) 1988 Pedro Delgado (E) Andy Hampsten (USA) Sean Kelly (EIR) 1989 Greg Lemond (USA) Laurent Fignon (F) Pedro Delgado (E) 1990 Greg Lemond (USA) Guanni Bugno (I) Marco Giovanetti (I) 1991 Miguel Indurain (E) Franco Chioccioli (I) Melchior Mauri (E) The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946. The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945. Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany. 1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and 1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks. One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.) There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949. In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rating the Tour de France Climbs (Bruce Hildenbrand bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM) One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK). The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage. It is important to note several things before this discussion begins. First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their classifications of climbs. The north side of the Col de la Madeleine has flip-flopped between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb, even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every year. Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised its ugly head here. Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now Category 1, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same position in a stage year after year. Let's talk about the ratings. I will give you my impressions on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on having ridden over 75 of the rated climbs in the major European tours. Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades. It has been my observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get rated. Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated. Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m). Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m). Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m) Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m) Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+) Steepness also plays a factor in the rating. Most of the big climbs in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average 8-9%. Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and that there are exceptions to every rule. For example, L'Alpe D'Huez climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb. This is because it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards. More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains. I have seen it rated anywhere from a Category 3 to a Category 1!!! This is most likely due again, to its placement on the stage. The Category 3 rating came when it was near the beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was near the end. Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating. Such sections offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty of the climb considerably. This may be one of the reasons that the aforementioned Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/ flat section at mid-height, flip-flops in its rating. I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in Europe. Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by European standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2, or the climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%) so again they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up most likely a Category 2 or 3. Fear not, there are exceptions. Most notable to Californains is the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs 4200' in 11 miles, a true category 1 ascent. A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of two offending downhill section on the ascent. For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long, but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial length(5+ miles). I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23 on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude. Gear ratios of 39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs. One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft. climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass. Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads. Dirt roads vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there really are no guidelines for their construction. This makes it difficult to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads. One last note. I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals. I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now. It is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how fast the pros climb the big passes. Pace makes all the difference. Riding a climb is very different than racing it. Bruce --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bike Trailers [Ed note: The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".] --------------------------------------------------------------------------- One Less Car T-Shirts (Alayne McGregor alayne@gandalf.UUCP) (Ed Ravin panix!eravin@cmcl2.nyu.edu) The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York City bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo on the front, and ONE LESS CAR on the back. Call TA for colors and sizes currently in stock. They're US$15 each. No refunds or exchanges. Allow 6 weeks for delivery. For people who have to drive but feel guilty about it, they also have "I'm Polluting the Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5. Send orders to: Transportation Alternatives 92 Saint Marks Place New York, NY 10009 USA attn: One Less Car I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots of comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing our shirts. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Panniers and Racks (Sharon Pedersen pedersen@cartan.berkeley.edu) This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider racks, loading and generators. --Sharon pedersen@cartan.berkeley.edu --PANNIERS-- Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart. Commuting to school entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making sturdiness as important here as for touring. Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well. Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use of space. You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets. One big and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty. Fastening--lots of options: bungees and hooks, or fixed placement hooks, or straps with buckles or cams. Bungees and hooks have been just fine in my own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will want more security. However, don't get a system with so many attachments that you can't stand to take the panniers on/off. Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with telegraphic comments made in 1988. Check local stores since features may have changed since then. Eclipse--(no comment); Kirtland--tourers like them; MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in Santa Rosa, CA, (707) 545-4624; Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than average cost" yeah! (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials); Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment; Rhode Gear--expensive; Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment. --LOW-RIDER RACKS-- Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager. The Bruce Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with clearance for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them apart to take the front wheel off. --REAR RACKS-- (No comment in the original article; Blackburns seem to be the standard and durable enough.) --LOADING-- Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft. Keep heavier items low and towards the bottom bracket. Rider, bike and luggage together should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel; remainder on front. Bike with front low-riders is quite stable. --GENERATORS-- The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers. Mount the generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and it will work fine, despite rotating "backwards." Or go with a generator under the bottom bracket, which will have the advantage of putting the wear on the tread rather than the sidewall of the tire. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Helmets The wearing of helmets is another highly emotional issue that has been debated many times on rec.bicycles. On one side, you have the cyclists who feel that they can do without - the helmet is too hot, uncomfortable, or they feel they just don't need it. On the other side, you have the cyclists who wouldn't be caught riding without a helmet - they like their head (and brains) they way they are. Statistics show that three-fourths of the more than 1000 bicycling deaths each year are caused by head injuries. Of those killed, half are school age children. According to one study, a helmet can reduce the risk of head injury by 85%. Consumer Reports did a review of bicycle helmets in the May 1990 issue. While their report is not what one would see in a cycling magazine, it does contain some useful and valuable information. Their tests showed that no-shell helmets work just as well as hard-shell helmets, and in fact, the top 9 helmets in their ratings are no-shell models. There is some controversy about whether no-shell helmets "grab" the pavement instead of sliding on impact. If the helmet grabbed, it might lead to more serious neck or spinal injury. This topic has been hotly debated in rec.bicycles, and some studies are in progress to see if this is true. There are two standards systems for helmets - ANSI (American National Standards Institute) and Snell (the Snell Memorial Foundation). The Snell tests are more demanding than ANSI, and a Snell-certified helmet will have a green Snell sticker inside. Some helmets claim they pass Snell, but unless there's a sticker in the helmet, you can't be sure. Snell also tests samples of certified helmets to make sure they still meet the standards. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Clothing materials (Jim Carson carson@mu.rice.edu) [Ed note: From a summary Jim posted] Polarlite Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla. Comfortable. Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind. Doesn't wick moisture out very well. Breathes very well. Supplex (nylon) Comfortable. It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof). Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched Merino (wool) From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing a heavy fleece of exceptional quality." I guess you could treat this as normal 100% wool. Thermax An improvement on Polypro. The big advantage is heat resistance so you can put it in the dryer. Balance that against the extra cost. CoolMax This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking material it is advertised as. Dacron Trademark name for Dupont polyester. Woven fabric made from dacron is similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy. Many of the better clothing insulations are made from dacron. They are usually refered to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard, and dacron-88. Lycra Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing. GoreTex A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes. Gortex's claim to fame is that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but not liquid water (rain). It blocks wind fairly well too. The membrane is delicate, so it always comes laminated between 2 layers of other material. It does not breathe enough. There are less expensive alternatives. Polypropylene Does not wick very well. Can be uncomfortable. Troublesome to care for (e.g. can pill badly) Will keep you fairly warm if soaked. Not very wind resistant. Melts in the dryer. Capilene Wicks moisture away. Very comfortable. Comes in different weights for more/less warmth. [lots of favorable things about it... only really unfavorable thing is the co$t] 60/40 cloth - This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in the other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came along, and is considerably less expensive. Good wind resistance, fairly breathable. Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray it with Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Seats Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons. There are several types of seats: Leather Seats like the Brooks models. Usually used by hard-core riders. Requires breaking in before it's really comfortable. Padded The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic". Has padding where your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest. Gel Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them for additional padding. Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift, making the seat uncomfortable. There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder, etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable. If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women readers) you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the section on seat adjustment). Women may need a women's type seat, which is wider in the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's). Most pain can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat, and riding so your body becomes used to it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- SIS Cable Info (Jobst Brandt jobst_brandt%40@hp1900.desk.hp.com) After Joe Gorin described the SIS "non-compressive" cable housing to me I got myself a sample to understand what the difference is. I believe "non-compressive" is a misnomer. This cable housing is NOT non-compressive but rather a constant length housing. As far as I can determine, and from reports from bike shops, this housing should not be used for brakes because it is relatively weak in compression, the principal stress for brake housing. SIS housing is made of 18 strands of 0.5mm diameter round spring steel wire wrapped in a 100mm period helix around a 2.5mm plastic tube. The assembly is held together by a 5mm OD plastic housing to make a relatively stiff cable housing. Because the structural wires lie in a helix, the housing length remains constant when bent in a curve. Each strand of the housing lies both on the inside and outside of the curve so on the average the wire path length remains constant, as does the housing centerline where the control cable resides. Hence, no length change. A brake cable housing, in contrast, changes length with curvature because only the inside of the curve remains at constant length while the outside (and centerline) expands. Shimano recommends this cable only for shift control but makes no special effort to warn against the danger of its use for brakes. It should not be used for anything other than shift cables because SIS housing cannot safely withstand compression. Its wires stand on end and have no compressive strength without the stiff plastic housing that holds them together. They aren't even curved wires, so they splay out when the outer shield is removed. Under continuous high load of braking, the plastic outer housing can burst leaving no support. Besides, in its current design it is only half as flexible as brake cable because its outer shell is made of structurally stiff plastic unlike the brake cable housing that uses a soft vinyl coating. Because brake cables transmit force rather than position, SIS cable, even if safe, would have no benefit. In contrast, with handlebar controls to give precise shift positioning, SIS housing can offer some advantage since the cable must move though steering angles. SIS housing has no benefit for downtube attached shifters because the cable bends do not change. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Terminology (David Keppel pardo@cs.washington.edu) (Charles Tryon bilbo@bisco.kodak.com) Ashtabula Crank A one-piece crank -- the crank arm starts on one side of the bike, bends to go through the bottom bracket, and bends again on the other side to go down to the other pedal. Typically heavy, cheap, and robust. See ``cottered crank'' and ``cotterless crank''. Ashtabula is the name of the original manufacturer, I think. Biopace Chainring Chainrings that are more oval rather than round. The idea was to redistribute the forces of pedaling to different points as your feet go around, due to the fact that there are "dead spots" in the stroke. The concensus is pretty much that they work ok for novices, but get in the way for more experienced riders. Cassette Freewheel A cassette freewheel is used with a freehub. The part of a normal freewheel that contains the pawls that transfer chain motion to the wheel (or allows the wheel to spin while the chain doesn't move) is part of the wheel hub. The cassette is the cogs, usually held together with small screws. Cleat A cleat attaches to the bottom of a cycling shoe. Older style cleats have a slot that fits over the back of the pedal, and in conjunction with toe clips and straps, hold your foot on the pedal. New "clipless" pedals have a specially designed cleat that locks into the pedal, sometimes with some ability to move side-to-side so as not to stress knees. Cottered Crank A three-piece crank with two arms and an axle. The arms each have a hole that fits over the end of the axle and a second hole that runs tangential to the first. The crank axle has a tangential notch at each end. A *cotter* is a tapered and rounded bar of metal that is inserted in the tangential hole in the crank arm and presses against the tangential notch in the crank axle. The cotter is held in place by a nut screwed on at the thin end of the cotter. Ideally, the cotter is removed with a special tool. Often, however, it is removed by banging on it with a hammer. If you do the latter (gads!) be sure (a) to unscrew the nut until the end of the cotter is nearly flush, but leave it on so that it will straighten the threads when you unscrew it farther and (b) brace the other side of the crank with something very solid (the weight of the bike should be resting on that `something') so that the force of the banging is not transmitted through the bottom bracket bearings. Cotterless Crank A three-piece crank with two arms and an axle. Currently (1991) the most common kind of crank. The crank axle has tapered square ends, the crank arms have mating tapered square ends. The crank arm is pressed on and the taper ensures a snug fit. The crank arm is drawn on and held in place with either nuts (low cost, ``nutted'' cotterless cranks) or with bolts. A special tool is required to remove a cotterless crank. Crank Axle The axle about which the crank arms and pedals revolve. May be integrated with the cranks (Ashtabula) or a separate piece (cottered and cotterless). Fender Also called a ``mudguard''. Looked down upon by tweak cyclists, but used widely in the Pacific Northwest and many non-US parts of the world. Helps keep the rider cleaner and drier. Compare to ``rooster tail''. Frame Table A big strong table that Will Not Flex and which has anchors at critical places -- dropouts, bottom bracket, seat, head. It also has places to attach accurate measuring instruments like dial gauges, scratch needles, etc. The frame is clamped to the table and out-of-line parts are yielded into alignment. High-Wheeler A bicycle with one large wheel and one small wheel. The commonest are large front/small rear. A small number are small front/large rear. See ``ordinary'' or ``penny-farthing'' and contrast to ``safety''. Hyperglide Freewheel Freewheel cogs with small "ramps" cut into the sides of the cogs which tend to pull the chain more quickly to the next larger cog when shifting. Ordinary See ``penny-farthing''. Penny-Farthing An old-fashioned ``high wheeler'' bicycle with a large (60", 150cm) front wheel and a much smaller rear wheel, the rider sits astride the front wheel and the pedals are connected directly to the front wheel like on many children's tricycles. Also called ``ordinary'', and distinguished from either a small front/large rear high wheeler or a ``safety'' bicycle. Rooster Tail A spray of water flung off the back wheel as the bicycle rolls through water. Particularly pronounced on bikes without fenders. See also ``fender''. Safety Named after the ``Rover Safety'' bicycle, the contemporary layout of equal-sized wheels with rear chain drive. Compare to ``ordinary''. Spindle See ``crank axle''. Three-Piece Crank A cottered or cotterless crank; compare to Ashtabula. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Maps (Jim Carson carson@rice.edu) BikeCentennial maps are not free, but you can get them without joining. To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call 1-800-933-1116 (24 hr). Maps are currently (May 1991) $6.95 each to "non-members," $4.95 each to "members." There are also small discounts for sets of maps and members in the continental US don't have to pay for surface shipping and handling. Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km. Certain areas are more detailed when necessary. I like the maps because they have lots of interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar bag map case. As of May '91, there are two and a half transcontinental (W-E) routes an east coast (N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and numerous routes among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada. [I say "2 1/2 transcontinental routes" because the southern portion of the transcontinental route from TX to FL is not in print though the maps are "done."] Membership is $22/annually, and they have a lifetime membership available. Members get copies of BikeCentennial's magazine, _BikeReport_, published 9 times annually, a list of tours run by BikeCentennial, and the annual _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_. _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of interesting information on touring and points of contact for more information about cycling and touring all over the world. (For example, they have an arrangement with The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism whereby you can purchase full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language maps.) BikeCentennial's address and phone: BikeCentennial (800) 933-1116, (406) 721-8719 PO Box 8308 Missoula, MT 59807-9988 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Women's Saddles (Pamela Blalock pamela@keps.kodak.com) Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find a comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I have found myself standing around after a ride talking with other women about saddles. This article came from those discussions and an informal survey of woman's saddle preferences. This is a dynamic article and changes on occassion, so if you have comments please contact me (pamela@keps.kodak.com) and I will incorporate your comments. Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each other. Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all poured, what works for one woman may not work for another. While this is an article on women's saddles, since so many other things can contribute to potential saddle pain, it will also address some of these issues as well. First, insure that your bike fits properly. Many women end up with overly padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of with a bike that fits. No saddle will be comfortable if the bike is too big, or set up incorrectly. It is important to find someone who knows about fit and specifically about women's fit and get the bike set up properly before making other changes. It isn't always easy to find someone willing to take the time, but when you find a shop that will, give them lots of business and send your friends there! In addition to being more comfortable, a bike that really fits will also handle better than one that is improperly sized. Most production bikes are built proportionally for the average man. Using the old guidelines of sizing a bike by straddling the top tube may leave you a bike with a top tube that is too long. It is not necessary to run out and buy a new bike right away if the top tube on your current bike is too long. Using a shorter stem on a this bike may give you a more comfortable reach. Very short stems, less than 40 mm, are available, but may have to be special ordered. Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers generated from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for everybody, especially women. It is important to RIDE your bike and possibly make more adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may use an infinitely adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed by Ben Serotta to help choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a Serotta or not. Adjustable stems are available to help you and the shop pick a perfect length stem the first time. Unless your current bike is a really, really poor fit, you should be able to make a few relatively inexpensive changes to improve the fit. Then when upgrading or buying a new bike, use what you have learned to buy a bike that fits better. One option is to simply select a bike with a shorter seat tube, combined with a longer seatpost, to get a shorter top tube length. This will work for taller women, but there is a limit of how short you can make a top tube with two 700C wheels. Several manufacturers have started building bikes proportionally sized for women to specifically address our needs. For small women, these bikes may have a smaller front wheel to get the shorter top tube, but not all women's bikes have a 24" front wheel. Some have two 26" or 700C wheels, depending on size and geometry. In addition to a shorter top tube, women's bikes may also have smaller brake levers, narrower handlebars, shorter cranks and wider saddles. Georgena Terry was the pioneer in this area, but many other manufacturers now build women's bikes. They may cost a little more than a comparably equipped man's bike, due to higher production costs for fewer number of parts. But, I believe that the extra initial cost to get a properly fit bike will pay off in the long run, since you will either stop riding an uncomfortable or poorly fitting bike, or you will eventually replace the poorly fitting parts at additional cost. Of course, as I said earlier, we are all different and many women may not need any special adjustments made to their non-custom off-the-shelf bikes. Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than a man's. (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!) Every woman is different, and there are some women out there with narrower hip bones. To determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb. Sorry, a chair won't do! When you sit on the curb, you will ba able to feel your sit bones. This is what you want supported by your bike saddle. Avocet used to (and maybe still does) run a great ad showing a hip bone sitting on a saddle. With a saddle that's too narrow, a woman may find herself straddling it, or slipping off of one side and pinching nerves - which may eventually cause the legs or feet to go numb. Of course, a saddle that's too wide may also cause problems. A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that comes on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones. I have quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel indicating exactly where I my bones are, which for me is close to the edge. Actually, looking at your old saddle will tell you a lot about where you do and do not need support! It's important to try out several different saddles to find one that fits. Remember, we are all different. Unfortunately no one manufacturer makes different sized women's saddles - but the widths do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer - so for example, if the Terry is too wide or too narrow, try the Vetta or Avocet or some other brand. Ask your local dealer to let you put your bike on a trainer in the shop and try sitting on and riding a few of his saddles. Saddles are fairly easy to change and a good shop should be willing to let you try this. There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are made with some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of these with no complaints. The gel does compress after a while (regardless of sex), so these saddles do have to be replaced (for me it's every 10,000 miles). Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of their saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft tissue. A large variety of saddles were used with this method including the Brooks leather. One rider pointed out that having a seatpost with infinitely adjustable angles, like the American Classic, will help one to find the perfect angle. With the rachet type adjustment of most, she was never able to get the angle quite right. One problem with having the saddle tilted too far forward is that you may end up with two much weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The result is numb hands and pain in the lower back. In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a cheap plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where the labia would normally rest. This would place the weight on the sit bones where it belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it does not. Two new saddles were introduced recently which specifically address this issue, the Terry Women's and the Miyata Pavea. Both are shorter and wider than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole in the nose to suspend soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when level. The Miyata leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered in an open-cell low-density foam. I have used both the Terry and the Miyata. I've received lots of positive comments from women (and men) about their experiences with these saddles. The men seem to notice the difference more after the ride later in the evening :) :) :) I recently completed a 750 mile ride on the back of a tandem in 85.5 hours. That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry for over 6 months and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles. But 400 miles into the trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the hole. Once the swelling started, the presence of the foam became unbearable. Even though there was no plastic shell underneath, there was still something! I asked our crew person to see if he could find the Miyata saddle. It's often quite difficult to find women's products, and I was almost shocked when he showed up 20 minutes later with this wonderful saddle with an exposed hole. He had found the Miyata. The difference was immediately noticeable. I probably would have finished the ride without it, but I wouldn't have been in a good mood for days! The Miyata is a little harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but that's not where I was experiencing pain. Of course the saddle is different looking and draws lots of comments and sexual innuendos, but it saved my ride. My male tandem partner is now looking into making a similar type modification to his saddle before our next really long event. Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's saddles too wide. Several women responded to the survey saying they prefer a man's saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip bones. For those who use a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat on top seemed to help with the above mentioned problems. Others who liked various women's saddles still found them a little thick in the middle, even if they were the right width in the back. Terry has announced a racing version of their saddle, which has a narrower nose. This saddle was supposed to be available in June, 1992, but a manufacturing problem has delayed its delivery to customers. I will update this article as soon as I get to test ride one. Someday, maybe we will see women's saddles in various widths. We must create the demand though. Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort including trying different shorts. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause discomfort. Shorts fit differently in and out of the saddle, so look down while you are on the bike. Sprinkling powder in the shorts may help keep you dry and saddle sore free on a warm day. A little vasoline may also help with prevention or treatment of saddles sores. I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle is perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or your friend, or *Pamela* uses a particular type of saddle doesn't mean that it will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into riding something that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your saddle because it's different. Use the setup that's most comfortable for you. Among the saddles recommended by respondents were Terry Women's Miyata Pavea WaveFlo Avocet Women's Racing saddle Viscount saddle San Marco Regal women's Selle Italia Turbo Brook's B-17 Brook's Pro (Of course some women hated saddles that others raved about! Did I mention that we are all DIFFERENT) Specialty women's products are available through The Womyn's Wheel, 540 Lafayette Rd, Suite 7, Hampton, NH, 03842-3344, phone 603-926-4939, or hopefully at your local bike shop - just keep asking them!!